THIERRY ALLEMAND
Thierry Allemand was on point in 2008, as one might expect, with two Cornas cuvées of impressive depth and purity and, of course, classic goût de terroir. I also discussed the phenomenon of rising alcohol levels in Cornas with Thierry, and he described how he is changing the way he works the soil and the pruning of his vines in order to increase yields slightly to lessen the alcohol content. He fabricates all of his own metal hand-plows in the garage underneath his house in Cornas. A truly self-sufficient vigneron, he doesn’t count on anyone but himself to supply the tools for success.
His old-vine Reynard bottling is the stuff of legend—a dark, chewy, gamey, leathery, bloody, granitic Syrah masterpiece. Chaillot has more charm and drinks well earlier.
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